antioxidants

the bottom line

Our skin naturally uses antioxidants for protection against ultraviolet light and environmental stressors including pollution and smoking, but when the balance becomes overwhelmed, damage can occur. In these cases, a topical antioxidant can help to shift the balance back towards healthy, protected skin. To learn more about antioxidants and their valuable role in skincare, keep reading.

first layer: what is oxidation?

We’ve all experienced oxidation – think of the cut surface of an apple which has turned brown upon exposure to air. Oxidation* is defined as a chemical process which occurs when an atom loses an electron. Free radicals* are unstable products which occur as a result of oxidation. As we age, we’re exposed to injuries in the form of ultraviolet radiation (UVR), pollution, smoking, and alcohol, all of which can produce free radicals. These free radicals create oxidative stress and an inflammatory response which can damage DNA and result in injury to the epidermal* and dermal* layers of the skin. This manifests as premature aging of the skin with decreased elasticity leading to increased wrinkling, age spots, and decreased skin tone. UVR can also initiate the formation and progression of tumors. Sunlight can also suppress the immune function of the skin. UVB rays are almost entirely absorbed in the epidermis, but UVA is able to penetrate the dermis.

Our bodies naturally use antioxidant enzymes and non-enzymatic antioxidants to combat this damage, but when we add in environmental damage secondary to smoking and pollution, the system quickly becomes overwhelmed. Antioxidant enzymes include catalase, glutathione reductase, superoxide dismutase, and glutathione peroxidase. Examples of non-enzymatic antioxidants include glutathione, ascorbic acid, vitamin E, and ubiquinol. 

second layer: antioxidants in skincare

Enter antioxidants*, the skin’s natural superhero for stressed skin. Antioxidants stabilize free radicals, limiting their potential to damage the body. While we might think of antioxidants as superfoods which include blueberries, strawberries, dark chocolate, and red wine, they can also be applied as topical ingredients. Vitamins C and E and coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone) are some of the best-known topical antioxidants.

As we’ve discussed, when the body’s own antioxidant system is overwhelmed, antioxidants can play a critical role in skin health. By applying an antioxidant directly to the skin, it can be delivered to the site that needs it most while bypassing the requirement for absorption through the gut. Some skin benefits of antioxidants include:

• reduction of signs of skin aging
• improvement of skin tone
• protection against environmental pollutants, including smoking and pollution
• support of the skin barrier 

Topical antioxidants do nonetheless face a few hurdles. First, they can be unstable, which makes formulation difficult. They must also be formulated in a manner that allows for skin absorption. Finally, they should ideally also have photoprotective* effects.

third layer: Centella asiatica

Our all-time, hands-down favorite antioxidant is Centella asiatica. Centella asiatica contains a large number of constituents, the most important of which are the centelloids. The centelloids include centelloside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid, and asiaticoside. Centelloids have been studied extensively for their effect on the skin.

A study of a Centella asiatica serum showed antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activity, suggesting that it can be used to decrease oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, and modulate skin pigmentation. Skin barrier and permeability studies of the same extract showed an improvement in skin barrier integrity and the ability for the compound to be delivered.

Another study examined the anti-aging potential of callus extract from Centella asiatica. Pretreatment of cells with the extract attenuated damage secondary to oxidation, and supplementation with the same extract inhibited induction of matrix metalloproteinase*, a member of a group of enzymes that can break proteins such as collagen or elastin. A final study of titrated extract of Centella asiatica examined its photoprotective effect, showing a protective effect against UVB irradiation at a low dose.

fourth layer: how we do it  

Coming soon, our Centella antioxidant serum, with Centella asiatica, propanediol, and glycerin to neutralize free radicals, support the skin barrier, and protect against environmental damage. Apply it twice daily after cleansing and toning, and just before your moisturizer. Finish with a sunscreen in the morning to protect against premature aging secondary to UV rays, pollution, and oxidation.

All this and more at anokhaskincare.com

xx

anokha

 

references:

Pinnell SR. Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress, and topical antioxidant protection. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003; 48(1): 1-19.

Bikiaris RE, Paczkowska-Walendowska M, Koumentakou I, Niti A, Cielecka-Piontek J, Kyzas GZ. Bioactivity and physicochemical characterization of Centella asiatica and Marigold extract serums: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and skin barrier function insights. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Dec;47(6):1070-1084. doi: 10.1111/ics.70006. Epub 2025 Jul 10. PMID: 40637214; PMCID: PMC12666765.

An IS, An S, Kang SM, Choe TB, Lee SN, Jang HH, Bae S. Titrated extract of Centella asiatica provides a UVB protective effect by altering microRNA expression profiles in human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Mol Med. 2012 Nov;30(5):1194-202. doi: 10.3892/ijmm.2012.1117. Epub 2012 Sep 4. PMID: 22948173.

Buranasudja V, Rani D, Malla A, Kobtrakul K, Vimolmangkang S. Insights into antioxidant activities and anti-skin-aging potential of callus extract from Centella asiatica (L.). Sci Rep. 2021 Jun 29;11(1):13459. doi: 10.1038/s41598-021-92958-7. PMID: 34188145; PMCID: PMC8241881.

 

*definitions:

antioxidants: an antioxidant is a compound that inhibits oxidation. free radicals create oxidative stress and an inflammatory response which in turn can damage DNA and result in injury to the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. in the skin, this manifests as premature aging with decreased elasticity leading to increased wrinkling, age spots, and decreased skin tone. antioxidants stabilize free radicals, which in turn limits their ability to damage the body. 

dermis: the dermis is the layer of tissue beneath the epidermis which contains blood vessels, nerve endings, sweat glands, and hair follicles.

epidermis: the outer layer of the skin. the skin barrier is the outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, which contains both protein-rich cells and a lipid-rich intercellular space.

free radicals: atoms or molecules with an unpaired electron. they are unstable molecules generated by UV rays, pollution, and lifestyle factors including smoking and alcohol consumption.

matrix metalloproteinases: matrix metalloproteinases are a member of a group of enzymes that can break proteins such as collagen or elastin. they can be over-stimulated by internal or external agents to break down healthy proteins.

photoprotection: protection against the effects of ultraviolet radiation

 

faq's:

what is oxidation?

oxidation is a chemical process which occurs when an atom loses an electron.

 

what are antioxidants?

antioxidants help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals which contribute to the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity. 

 

what is Centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a South Asian shrub which is believed to contain active ingredients which stimulate the production of human collagen. it has been shown to be effective in the treatment of burns, wounds, ulcers, and the prevention of scars, and is an anti-inflammatory agent and antioxidant.